Wednesday, August 12, 2015

A Week in the Country - Sabina!

Diario di Roma II: Rome Diary 2 – Settimana dué-Week #2!  
Summer! 83°F/28°C in Roma
Buongiorno,
This morning we went for a walk along il fiume Tevere – the Tiber River as it runs through
Etruscan Valley
the Etruscan Valley on its way into Rome, where it becomes encased in stone and cement Los Angeles River-style, a long ago captive of an ancient flood control project. But here, out in the countryside, the Tiber flows serenely along as it meanders toward its ultimate destination – the Mediterranean. 
 Remember that Diane Lane movie Under the Tuscan Sun? Well, that’s the story of my life this week, only I’m in Sabina. Selci to be exact. Michael, Laura and I are “house-sitting” for her parents, Sergio and Annamaria Tomei, while Laura’s folks are – as they say in these parts – on holiday. The house sits near the top of a mountain overlooking a lush, green valley. The sunshine on the patio behind it is filtered through the top branches of the olive trees that dot the property. Once a year, Sergio gathers friends, family members and neighbors to help harvest the olives from his 80-some olive trees and trundles them into Selci to have them pressed into the most delectable olio olivo to ever cross my discerning palate.
Fiume Tevere - The Tiber
It was my brother Packy, who introduced me to the Onion Theory of Stress Reduction many long years ago. Get far away from whatever is causing you stress and relax. The stress will fall away from you like layers from an onion that’s being peeled. Selci is the kind of place that does that for me. On our first night, Sergio invited us to the  Caccia Festa. T’is the Festa season here in Italy. It’s summer time or estate. So there’s lots to celebrate. The Caccia Festa celebrates the hunt. It’s a giant barbecue at the local fairgrounds, complete with a band, dancing and long rows of tables to dine at. The grills are fired up early in the afternoon for all the roasting that has to be done. There’s wild boar, venison, grilled pork and goat, and of course, lamb. Pastas, salads and varieties of other vegetables, and plenty of fine local wines to wash it down with. It’s a giant picnic under summertime Sabina skies. The weather, which threatened at first to rain out the Festa passed by and left the crowd to enjoy the evening under partly cloudy but otherwise balmy skies. A perfect ending to a great first weekend for me in Italy. My “onion” was definitely getting peeled.
Caccia Festa
Sabina secured its place in history back in Rome’s early days, when the future center of civilization more closely resembled San Francisco during the Gold Rush of 1849. Remember your Gold Rush history? That’s when ambitious males from all over the world swarmed into California’s gold country to seek their fortune. Most of them found little treasure and almost zilch in the way of feminine companionship. So it was in Roma Antica. Now, depending on which account of The Rape of the Sabine Women that you’re familiar with - the accounts tend to vary. I prefer the Man Who Came to Dinner version, where a throng of young Roman males were invited to a Festa in Sabina, ate and drank their hosts out of house and home and then added insult to injury by carting off all the women in the province to become Roman brides. The Romans had indeed struck gold in this adventure, for to this day, Sabina boasts the loveliest damsels in all of Italy.
Michael, Laura, MikeBo
Now, I should mention the health plan that Mike and Laura have laid out for me on this trip.  Italy has never heard of the Americans with Disabilities Act, although some of the big tourist hotels that cater to older Americans like me do have lots of ramps and extra elevators and blue curbs out front. But Sabina has medieval towns with lots of steep grades and hills and stairs and steps everywhere else. So, a casual afternoon stroll for me, is the equivalent of what my grandson Joshua faced every day at Marine boot camp when he ran the Grinder. For me in Italy, Josh’s full battle pack is the extra 25 pounds I know I’m going to lose on this trip, trying to keep up with Michael and Laura on their daily walks. Walk or die! must be a slogan in the Italian lifestyle manual. There are no obvious alternatives for hypochondriacs like me. Monday, Michael and Laura took me on a walking tour of Old Selci. Along steep, narrow streets and up and down steeper and narrower stairways we made our way through the old city. When I stopped to catch my breath from time to time, I could practically hear the slap of sandals from the Roman legionnaires marching behind us. And, I certainly felt grateful as I looked up from the narrow streets we were walking, knowing that the residents no longer threw their garbage and the household night soil down on the street below to be flushed away by the first rainfall. Finally, when I thought I could not take one more step, we found ourselves in a piazza at the top of the hill where we stopped at a beckoning bar for a well-earned aperativo. More on my Italian adventure- domani!
Ciao,
MikeBo
©Mike Botula 2015

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